Article by Devin Kelly, DOGPAK Founder 
in collaboration with Peggy Kelly Photography  

This is the second part of the series. It is a comprehensive introductory guide for beginner and intermediate level dog photographers. But the journey is endless, and may the learning never cease. 

Capturing Canine Adventures: Your Ultimate Guide to Adventure Dog Photography (Part 2/3)

In Part 1, we covered a range of topics including essential gear for adventure dog photography, the pros and cons of different camera options, and a relatively in-depth overview of photography lenses and their qualitative characteristics. If you missed it, check it out here.

Don't forget to submit your adventure photos to our Instagram photo contest giveaway for a chance to win new DOGPAK gear like a Moab Lite dog backpack and hiking harness for your adventure friend. Just tag your photos with #dogpakexplorers24 and follow @thedogpak to enter. 

Part 2 is where everything starts coming together. So without further ado, let's dive right in: 

IV. Camera Settings and Techniques: Taming the Beast

Ok, wanderlust lensfolk: you've got the gear, you've got the pooch (i.e. “the talent”), and you've got the wild enticing a visit. Now it's time to wrestle those camera settings and techniques into submission. In this section, we help you transform your camera from a fancy paperweight into a bona fide adventure-recording device so you can chronicle your globe-trotting tales.

A. The Exposure Triangle: Your New Golden Ratio

Think of these three elements as the holy trinity of photography. Each plays a crucial role, and they're all interconnected like a well-planned excursion. Change one, and you'll need to adjust the others to maintain proper exposure.

Aperture: Your Depth Control

Think of this as depth-of-field sorcery. It's not rocket science, but it does make magic.

At its core, aperture is simply the size of the hole that lets light into your camera. Think of it like your pupils—they get bigger in low light and smaller in bright conditions. But brightness is only one variable affected by aperture. Here's where aperture gets interesting:

Another after-effect of aperture selection is “Depth of Field”: think of depth of field (DoF) as your "zone of sharpness" – the range of distance where everything appears in focus. It's like having a slice of sharp reality sandwiched between blur, and you control how thick that slice is.

Shallow depth of field: a thin slice of focus (like focusing on your dog's eyes while the rest of the world melts into creamy blur). This is what you get with wide apertures like f/1.8 or f/2.8. 

Perfect for:

• Portraits where you want your pup to pop from the background
• Isolating details like paw prints in sand
• Creating dreamy, atmospheric shots around the campfire

Deep depth of field: a thick slice of focus (everything sharp from your dog's nose to those distant mountains). This happens at smaller apertures like f/8 or f/11. 

Ideal for:

• Epic landscape shots with your dog as scale
• Trail action shots where you want both dog and terrain sharp
• Group photos at the summit

*Pro Tip: Three factors affect your depth of field:

1. Aperture (the obvious one): Wider = shallower, smaller = deeper
2. Distance to subject: The closer you are, the shallower your DoF
3. Focal length: Longer lenses = shallower DoF

Aperture summed up: 

• Measured in f-stops (f/1.4, f/2.8, f/8, etc.)
• Lower f-numbers = bigger hole = more light + shallower depth of field
• Higher f-numbers = smaller hole = less light + deeper depth of field

Real-world examples:

• f/1.8-f/2.8: Perfect for portraits of your pup with dreamy, blurred backgrounds
• f/8-f/11: Ideal for landscape shots where you want everything sharp from your dog in the foreground to those distant peaks
• f/16-f/22: For those epic shots where you want absolutely everything in focus (though watch out for diffraction)

Shutter Speed: Dividing Time to Capture Moments 

This is where the action happens. Think of your shutter like a curtain that opens and closes to let light hit your camera's sensor. But more importantly, it's your time machine—controlling how motion is captured in your frame.

Keep in mind that shutter speed settings will also affect the brightness of your photo. Fast shutter speeds do not allow as much light to be captured, and your photo will be darker. More on how to deal with that later. 

Your shutter speed should match the energy of the moment:

Fast Shutter Speeds (1/500s and faster): Freeze-frame Action

• 1/1000s or faster: Capture water droplets flying as your dog shakes
• 1/2000s: Freeze that perfect mid-air fetch leap
• 1/500s: Sharp shots of trail running and general action 

Perfect for:

• Action shots on the trail
• Water play photography
• Capturing those crazy head-shake moments

 

Medium Shutter Speeds (1/125s - 1/500s): Everyday Movement

• 1/250s: Walking, casual movement
• 1/125s: Posed portraits with slight movement 

Great for:

• General hiking photos
• Most daylight situations
• Casual trail moments

Slow Shutter Speeds (1/60s and slower): Creative Motion

• 1/60s: Slight motion blur
• 1/30s and slower: Significant motion effects
• Several seconds: Light painting around the campfire 

Perfect for:

• Capturing flowing water while your dog stands still
• Creative blurring, like tail-wagging effects
• Nighttime long exposures with your pup by the tent

 

*Pro Tip: The Handheld Rule 

Unless you've got the steady hands of a surgeon or hawk-like stabilization abilities, follow this rule for sharp handheld shots: minimum shutter speed = 1/(focal length of your lens).

Using a 50mm lens? Stay at 1/50s or faster. Shooting with a 200mm telephoto? Better keep it at 1/200s or faster.

Remember: Like your dog's energy level, shutter speed is all about matching the moment. Fast action needs fast shutters, calm moments can go slower, and sometimes a little motion blur is exactly what tells the story best.

ISO: Light Sensitivity for the Illuminated Dog Photographer

The necessary evil. Keep it low for crisp, clean images, but don't be afraid to crank it up when the light fades. A higher ISO allows the image to be brighter, but also creates “noise” in the photo. But a grainy shot is better than no shot at all, and some photographers prefer that style. Modern cameras can handle higher ISOs than you might think, so experiment and find your camera's sweet spot.

Think of ISO as your camera's sensitivity to light—like the dog nose of your camera, or some such simile. It's your emergency backup when natural light isn't playing nice, but like most emergency gear, it comes with trade-offs: namely, what photographers refer to as “noise.”

“Noise” refers to those grainy, speckled artifacts that appear in photos—like static on a radio, but visual—typically showing up when shooting in low light with high ISO settings.

 

Low ISO (100-400): The Pure Stuff

• ISO 100: Crisp, clean images in bright conditions
• ISO 200-400: Still super clean, ideal for bright to overcast days 

Perfect for:

• Bluebird summit days
• Beach adventures
• Desert trails
• Any situation with plenty of light 

Pro Tip: Always start here if you can.

Medium ISO (800-1600): The Sweet Spot

• ISO 800: Your go-to for overcast days or forest shade
• ISO 1600: Dawn patrol or dusk adventures 

Great for:

• Forest trails under canopy
• Golden hour shoots
• Cloudy day adventures
• Indoor training facilities 

Pro Tip: Modern cameras handle these ISOs like champs—don't be afraid to use them.

High ISO (3200 and up): The Necessary Evil

• ISO 3200-6400: When the light gets seriously scarce
• ISO 6400+: Emergency situations or creative choices 

Essential for:

• Campfire stories
• Dawn/dusk wildlife encounters
• Storm photography
• Indoor action shots 

Pro Tip: Like taking the sketchy trail to get the shot—sometimes it's worth it, but know the risks.

The Trade-off Tale: 

• Lower ISO = Less noise, better image quality, but needs more light
• Higher ISO = More noise (grain), decreased image quality, but works in low light 

Modern Camera Magic: Today's cameras are like well-trained trail dogs—they can handle tough conditions better than ever.

• Full-frame cameras: Often clean up to ISO 3200 or higher
• Crop sensors: Typically good to 1600-3200
• Older cameras: Might want to stay under 1600

Pro Tips for ISO Success:

1. Start low, go high only when needed
2. Test your camera's limits in advance
3. Consider noise reduction in post-processing
4. A grainy shot is better than a missed shot
5. Some photographers actually like grain—it can add mood

B. Focusing Techniques: Because a Blurry Dog is a Sad Dog

The kinds of modern digital cameras we mentioned earlier are usually compatible with lenses capable of auto-focus. Old analog lenses might require manual focus, and while some photographers prefer manual focus, an auto-focus feature is generally more suitable for dog photographers because it allows you to quickly and sharply capture your pup on the move at different distances from the camera. For this section, we will focus on auto-focus. (Yes, I know that was a lame pun)

 

Single-point AF: 

Your go-to for portraits or when your pup is being a good boy and staying still. Place that focus point right on the eyes for maximum impact.

Continuous AF (AI Servo.Servo AF): 

For when your dog is dashing to and fro, frolicking about in a meadow to the sound of his own music. This mode tracks moving subjects, keeping them sharp even when they're spellbound by a sudden case of the zoomies.

Back-button focus: 

Once you try it, you'll wonder how you ever lived without it. It separates focusing from your shutter button, giving you more control and flexibility. Trust me, it's a game-changer.

C. Burst Mode: Because Dogs Are Unpredictable

Crank that frame rate up, baby! Dogs have a knack for pulling their best poses for a split second. Burst mode lets you machine-gun through those moments, increasing your chances of nailing the perfect shot. Just be prepared for some serious culling later. And be ready to laugh as you scroll through all the silly faces your dog made in those imperceptible moments.

D. RAW vs. JPEG: Choose Your Fighter

RAW is like having a time machine for your photos. It gives you way more flexibility in post-processing, letting you rescue shots you thought were goners. JPEG is like fast food—quick and convenient, but not as nutritious. If you've got the storage space and some post-processing experience, shoot RAW. Your future self will thank you. 

 

Many cameras allow you to save both a RAW and a JPEG file for the same photo. This is a great option, the best of both worlds, but make sure you have enough space on your memory card because it gets eaten up fast, especially by those RAW files. 

 

E. Using Natural Light: Sun-Wrangling 101

Golden Hour: Not just for Instagram influencers 

This magical time just after sunrise or before sunset bathes everything in a warm, flattering light. It's like nature's own beauty filter.

Cloudy Days: Nature's softbox 

Overcast skies provide even, diffused light that's perfect for bringing out details and colors in your dog's fur.

Harsh Midday Sun: The bane of photographers everywhere 

But fear not! Use it to create dramatic shadows, or find some shade for more even lighting. This is a great time to find a forest and look for scintillating sun rays peeking through the canopy. 

*Remember, these are guidelines, not gospel. 

The best artists know the rules inside and out—and then they know exactly when to break them. So get out there, experiment, and find your own style. Your dog doesn't care about perfect exposure or tack-sharp focus—they just want to explore with you. And at the end of the day, that's what really matters.

Now on to composition: where photography becomes an art form.

V. Composition Tips: Frame Your Pup with Style and Character

This is where we separate the mundane from the magnificent, the forgettable from the frame-worthy. Buckle up, because we're about to turn your adventure dog photos into visual poetry.

 

A. The Rule of Thirds: Your Gridded Guideline

Imagine your frame divided into a tic-tac-toe board. Now, instead of X's and O's, place your pooch or key elements along those lines or at their intersections. It seems basic, but it works like a charm: your dog's eyes on the upper third, a mountain peak on the right vertical line—snap: instant visual interest.

But here's the kicker: rules are made to be broken. Once you've mastered the rule of thirds, feel free to throw it out the window when the moment calls for it. Sometimes, a dead-center composition can pack a punch that'll knock your dog’s booties off. And sometimes a seemingly unbalanced photograph tells a chaotic and unbounded story that better conveys the heart of your wilderness escapade. 

 

B. Leading Lines: Your Visual Trail of Breadcrumbs

Use natural lines in your environment to guide the viewer's eye straight to your four-legged focal point. A winding trail, a fallen log, fence lines fading into the distance, or even a well-placed leash can serve as a highway directly to your pup, or to wherever you want to draw the viewer’s attention.  It's like subliminal messaging, but for eyeballs.

 

C. Framing: Nature's Instagram Border

Look for natural frames within your scene. Tree branches, rock formations, or even your own tent entrance can create a frame within your frame. It adds depth, draws focus, and makes your viewers feel like they're right there with you and your adventure buddy.

 

D. Perspective: Get Down and Dirty (Literally)

Start playing with various perspectives. Want to make your dogs look like the majestic beasts they are? Get low. I'm talking belly-in-the-dirt low. Shooting from your dog's eye level (or even lower) can transform a good shot into a great one. So get dirty, scrape your knees, and develop a cramp in a muscle you didn’t even know you had. Do it for the ‘gram. 

*Pro-tip: If you’re using a smartphone camera, flip it upside down so the camera lens is on the bottom. It will give you an extra couple inches of perspective-shift, and sometimes that makes all the difference. 

 

E. Negative Space: Sometimes Less is More

Don't be afraid of empty space in your composition. A lone dog silhouetted against a vast sky or an empty desert can speak volumes about solitude and adventure. It's not emptiness—it's breathing room for the eyes.

It can be a great way to capture the rugged desolation of certain landscapes, like the sprawling flat-lands of the Texas Panhandle or the seemingly ceaseless salt flats of Uyuni in Bolivia. Use negative space to dwarf the great sand dunes of the Sahara or Gobi deserts against the infinite blue sky above.

Done well, there is sometimes more story in the negative space than in the subject alone. One of our goals in adventure dog photography is to not only capture the subject, but to visually convey the emotional mood of our adventure. 

 

F. The Decisive Moment: Timing is Everything

Channel your inner Henri Cartier-Bresson and wait for that perfect moment. Maybe it's when your dog's paw first hits the water, or when their ears perk up at a distant sound. These split-second moments can elevate your photo from "nice shot" to "wow, what kind of phantasmagorical magic are you working with?!"

 

G. Include the Human Element (Sometimes)

While this guide is about dog photography, don't forget that the bond between human and canine is what makes these adventures special. Include a human element occasionally—a hand reaching out to pet, boots walking alongside paw prints, or even a full-body shot of you and your mangy mutt bagging a muddy summit together.

 

H. Focus On The Eyes: Your Window to the Heart and Soul

There’s nothing like the loving and gripping glance your dog gives you with those big handsome eyes. Much of their emotion can be conveyed in their eyes, from excited anticipation of another bout of the zoomies to the piercing hawk-like glare of a hound on the hunt. When in doubt, focus on the eyes. A sharp, expressive canine gaze can make a photo. It's the window to the soul, after all, and dogs have some of the best souls around.

Again, these aren't hard and fast rules. They're more like... guidelines…or suggestions. They’re a starting point, but the best compositions often come from a gut feeling—an instinct honed through practice and experience—a flare for the fantastic and a penchant for poetic aesthetics. So get out there, experiment, and find what works for you and your adventure pup.

Your camera is your brush, the wilderness is your canvas, and your dog is the protagonist of your magnum opus. Now go forth, conquer, and visually chronicle the magical bond you’re building with your pup.

This sums up Part 2. In Part 3, we'll tackle the Herculean task of getting your dog's attention and cooperation.

Don't forget to submit your adventure dog photos to our Explorer Series 2024 Giveaway on Instagram to win free DOGPAK gear.

The rest of the guide will cover: 

VI. Getting Your Dog's Attention and Cooperation 

A. Training basics for photo shoots 

B. Using treats and toys effectively 

C. The importance of patience and positive reinforcement

 

VII. Post-Processing Your Adventure Dog Photos 

A. Basic editing tips (exposure, contrast, color) 

B. Enhancing the mood and atmosphere 

C. Popular editing software and apps

 

VIII. Safety Considerations 

A. Choosing safe locations for your dog 

B. Being aware of wildlife and potential hazards 

C. Importance of breaks and hydration during photo sessions

 

IX. Sharing Your Adventure Dog Photos 

A. Social media best practices 

B. Tagging and hashtags to increase visibility 

C. Entering photo contests (including the DOGPAK giveaway)

 

X. Conclusion 

A. Recap of key points 

B. Encouragement to practice and experiment